European Elegance

Ai Fiori is the perfect spot to impress or be impressed by a client.

Photos: Hotel Dining

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Ramsay de Give for The Wall Street Journal

The dining room, which overlooks Fifth Avenue

Chef Michael White's newest venture, which opened in November, is everything you might expect from a five-star restaurant on Fifth: good food, great atmosphere, an all-star team and somewhat fussy service. Because the restaurant is on the second level of the new luxurious Setai, diners can expect a corporate-like ambience and a somewhat conservative menu that hits all points.

Adventurous types can start with the Mediterranean sardines or the Granchio, an appetizer of blue crab, avocado, grapefruit and crispy farinata ($19).

The restaurant is noted for its White Label prime burger, but the pastas, which run $18 to $23, are superb. Entrees include Maine lobster, skate wing and filet of beef, but the lunch crowd would do well with the gnocchi with crab and sea urchin ($23) or the Agnolotti with veal parcels, butternut squash and black truffle sugo ($23), the most popular item at lunch.

With 185 seats and a grand bar, Ai Fiori is a bit roomier and quieter than Mr. White's other spots. Go before others discover it.

Ai Fiori is at 400 Fifth Ave. at 37th Street, in the Setai Fifth Avenue; 212-613-8660. Lunch is served 11:45 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday.

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Online.wsj.com